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Dye & Mordant

  • Dye Kit - Kathy Hays Designs - Natural Dye Extracts and Surface Design Class
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    Natural dye and mordant kit for Kathy Hays online class "Eco Print, Natural Dye Extracts and Surface Design"

    Expand your Eco Printing skills with the addition of Natural Dye Extracts. Combining Natural Dye Extract and Eco Printing with plants creates very unique-to-you fabric.

    Kit Includes:

    • 50g Lac Extract
    • 50g Logwwod Extract
    • 50g Osage-Orange Extract
    • 50g Pomegranate Extract
    • 100g Gum Tragacanth
    • 100g Iron Sulfate
    • 100g Oak Gall Powder
    • 500g Potassium Alum
    • 50g Soda Ash
    • 50g Tartaric Acid
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  • Lac Extract 2oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Lac Extract 2oz

    $12.60

    Lac Extract  –  a red dye extract from the scale insect Laccifer lacca and can found throughout India, south east Asia, Nepal and south China. It is harvested from both wild and cultivated means. The female lac insects invade host trees and secretes a resin that contains the red dye. The resin is harvested and taken off the branches and is known as stick lac. The resin contains both shellac and dye. The dye is extracted from the resin and the remaining shellac is further refined into other products. The colors are similar to cochineal but softer and warmer in appearance.

    • Dye Amount: 5-8% WOF
    • Color: crimsons, burgundy reds and deep purples
    • Light fastness: High
    • Wash fastness: High
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Alum mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers
      • Tannin mordant at 8% WOF and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF
    • Dyeing: Dissolve extract in water and simmer with fiber for 45-60  minutes. For the richest colors, leave the dye pot to soak over night. Lac dye is very sensitive to change in pH and develops to its fullest color potential with the addition of cream of tartar at 6% WOF. For plum purples, add an alkali such as cream of tarter. For blackened purples, add ferrous sulfate.
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  • Osage Extract 2 oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Osage Extract 2 oz

    $8.10

    Consists of the wood from the osage-orange tree(Maclura pomifera). Osage contains a yellow dye similar to fustic and black oak and yields clear, true yellows to soft yellow greens. Osage grows throughout the south and central United States. 

    • Dye Amount: 2-5% WOF Extract, 20-30% WOF chips or saw dust
    • Color: True to soft yellows
    • Light fastness: Excellent
    • Wash fastness: Excellent
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Tannin mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF
    • Dyeing:
      • Chips or saw dust: Cover the chips or saw dust with boiling water and let soak overnight. Remove the chips/dust, add addition water to cover fiber and simmer at around 170 degrees but not more than 180 degrees for an hour. For Rich colors, leave the fibers to soak overnight.
      • Extract: Mix the extract in a small container of hot but not boiling water. Once thoroughly mixed, add to the dye bath and simmer for 45 minutes. For rich colors, allow the dye bath to cool overnight.
    • Color Variations
      • Brightened Yellows: add copper to the dye bath or dye in a copper pot
      • Olive Green: Add 2-4% ferrous sulfate
      • Emerald Green or Leaf green: Over dye or under Dye in indigo
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  • Oak Gall - 8 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Oak Gall - 8 oz

    $27.70

    Gallnut or Oak Gall is used to mordant cellulose fibers and fabrics before the alum mordant is used. Alum does not combine as readily with cellulose fibers as it does with protein fibers.

    Tannin has a great affinity with cellulose fiber and once mordanted with tannin, alum combines well with the tannin-fiber complex.

    Gallnuts from the oak tree are the earliest and richest source for natural tannin. They are produced by insects who deposit their eggs in small punctures they make on young branches. As a protection, the tree excretes a tannin rich substance that hardens and forms into a gallnut. These are collected and ground for use as a tannin mordant.

    Gallnuts are used in the leather tanning industry, and for in some medicines.

    Use at 6-8% WOF.
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  • Logwood Purple Extract 2oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Logwood Purple Extract 2oz

    $22.60

     Logwood is derived from the heartwood of the logwood tree (Haematoxylon campechianum). It yields deep rich red purples to orchid blues depending on concentration and type of mordants used. Logwwod has been use a dye source since the 16th century. The logwwod tree is native to mexico, central america and portions of South America and India. Deep blacks can be obtained with the use of ferrous sulfate. Logwood develops best in a hard water dye bath. 

    • Dye Amount: 0.1-1% WOF Extract, 15-20% WOF chips
    • Color: Purple and purple shades, grey and black
    • Light fastness: moderate (dramatically improved with use of iron)
    • Wash fastness: good
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Alum mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers
      • Tannin mordant at 8% WOF and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF
    • Dyeing:
      • Chips: Cover the chips with boiling water and let soak overnight. Remove the chips, add addition water to cover fiber and simmer at around 170 degrees but not more than 180 degrees for an hour. For Rich colors, leave the fibers to soak overnight.
      • Extract: Mix the extract in a small container of hot but not boiling water. Once thoroughly mixed, add to the dye bath and simmer for 45 minutes. For rich colors, allow the dye bath to cool overnight.
    • Color Variations
      • Purple-Navy: add 6% WOF of cream of tarter.
      • GreyGreens: Add osage orange or fustic
      • Purples: Add cochineal
      • Browns: Add cutch
      • Navy: dip in indigo bath
      • Greys and black: add ferrous sulfate
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  • Logwood Purple Extract 1oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Logwood Purple Extract 1oz

    $11.70

     Logwood is derived from the heartwood of the logwood tree (Haematoxylon campechianum). It yields deep rich red purples to orchid blues depending on concentration and type of mordants used. Logwwod has been use a dye source since the 16th century. The logwwod tree is native to mexico, central america and portions of South America and India. Deep blacks can be obtained with the use of ferrous sulfate. Logwood develops best in a hard water dye bath. 

    • Dye Amount: 0.1-1% WOF Extract, 15-20% WOF chips
    • Color: Purple and purple shades, grey and black
    • Light fastness: moderate (dramatically improved with use of iron)
    • Wash fastness: good
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Alum mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers
      • Tannin mordant at 8% WOF and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF
    • Dyeing:
      • Chips: Cover the chips with boiling water and let soak overnight. Remove the chips, add addition water to cover fiber and simmer at around 170 degrees but not more than 180 degrees for an hour. For Rich colors, leave the fibers to soak overnight.
      • Extract: Mix the extract in a small container of hot but not boiling water. Once thoroughly mixed, add to the dye bath and simmer for 45 minutes. For rich colors, allow the dye bath to cool overnight.
    • Color Variations
      • Purple-Navy: add 6% WOF of cream of tarter.
      • GreyGreens: Add osage orange or fustic
      • Purples: Add cochineal
      • Browns: Add cutch
      • Navy: dip in indigo bath
      • Greys and black: add ferrous sulfate
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  • Lac Extract 1oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Lac Extract 1oz

    $6.70

    Lac Extract  –  a red dye extract from the scale insect Laccifer lacca and can found throughout India, south east Asia, Nepal and south China. It is harvested from both wild and cultivated means. The female lac insects invade host trees and secretes a resin that contains the red dye. The resin is harvested and taken off the branches and is known as stick lac. The resin contains both shellac and dye. The dye is extracted from the resin and the remaining shellac is further refined into other products. The colors are similar to cochineal but softer and warmer in appearance.

    • Dye Amount: 5-8% WOF
    • Color: crimsons, burgundy reds and deep purples
    • Light fastness: High
    • Wash fastness: High
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Alum mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers
      • Tannin mordant at 8% WOF and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF
    • Dyeing: Dissolve extract in water and simmer with fiber for 45-60  minutes. For the richest colors, leave the dye pot to soak over night. Lac dye is very sensitive to change in pH and develops to its fullest color potential with the addition of cream of tartar at 6% WOF. For plum purples, add an alkali such as cream of tarter. For blackened purples, add ferrous sulfate.
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  • Aluminum Acetate - Alum Acetate - 4 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Aluminum Acetate - Alum Acetate - 4 oz

    $12.95

    Aluminum Acetate or Alum Acetate is a fine white powder that is refined from bauxite and purified using acetic acid to remove impurities. It is primarily used as a mordant for cellulose and bast fibers. 

    Mordant at 5-10% WOF

    Use of a dust mask is highly suggested when working with this mordant.

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  • Copper Sulfate Powder - 16 oz - Wholesale
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    Copper sulfate, when used as a mordant is similar to iron in darkening the dye colors but it is less harsh on the fibers. Copper sulfate is sometimes listed as copper sulphate or copper vitriol.

    Copper sulfate can be used on all fibers and usually improves the color fastness of plant dyes.

    Copper sulfate tends to make colors greener or browner in tone.

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  • Myrobalan - 2 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Myrobalan - 2 oz

    $3.05

    Myrobalan is made from the ground nuts of the Terminalia chebula tree which grows in south China, Sri Lanka, Burma, Nepal and Thailand. Myrobalan can be used both as a dye and a mordant. As a dye, Myrobalan has a light buttery yellow. It is also high in tannin which makes it a good chose to mordant cellulose fibers.

    • Dye
      • Amount: 20-30% WOF
      • Color: Soft buttery yellow
      • A single dip in indigo will result in teal
    • Mordant
      • Myrobalan at 15-20% WOF followed by Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein and cellulose fibers
    • Dyeing
      • Add myrobalan powder to the dye or mordant bath, bring bath up to 55ºC (130ºF) and then add fiber. Continue heating bath to a high simmer (approximately 83ºC (180ºF)) hold for one hour. Adding iron (2-4% WOF) to the bath will produce soft lichen greens to deep grey-greens.
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  • Oak Gall - 4 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Oak Gall - 4 oz

    $14.25

    Gallnut or Oak Gall is used to mordant cellulose fibers and fabrics before the alum mordant is used. Alum does not combine as readily with cellulose fibers as it does with protein fibers.

    Tannin has a great affinity with cellulose fiber and once mordanted with tannin, alum combines well with the tannin-fiber complex.

    Gallnuts from the oak tree are the earliest and richest source for natural tannin. They are produced by insects who deposit their eggs in small punctures they make on young branches. As a protection, the tree excretes a tannin rich substance that hardens and forms into a gallnut. These are collected and ground for use as a tannin mordant.

    Gallnuts are used in the leather tanning industry, and for in some medicines.

    Use at 6-8% WOF.
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  • Osage Extract 4 oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Osage Extract 4 oz

    $15.45

    Consists of the wood from the osage-orange tree(Maclura pomifera). Osage contains a yellow dye similar to fustic and black oak and yields clear, true yellows to soft yellow greens. Osage grows throughout the south and central United States. 

    • Dye Amount: 2-5% WOF Extract, 20-30% WOF chips or saw dust
    • Color: True to soft yellows
    • Light fastness: Excellent
    • Wash fastness: Excellent
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Tannin mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF
    • Dyeing:
      • Chips or saw dust: Cover the chips or saw dust with boiling water and let soak overnight. Remove the chips/dust, add addition water to cover fiber and simmer at around 170 degrees but not more than 180 degrees for an hour. For Rich colors, leave the fibers to soak overnight.
      • Extract: Mix the extract in a small container of hot but not boiling water. Once thoroughly mixed, add to the dye bath and simmer for 45 minutes. For rich colors, allow the dye bath to cool overnight.
    • Color Variations
      • Brightened Yellows: add copper to the dye bath or dye in a copper pot
      • Olive Green: Add 2-4% ferrous sulfate
      • Emerald Green or Leaf green: Over dye or under Dye in indigo
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  • Pomegranate Extract - 2 oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Pomegranate Extract - 2 oz

    $7.55

    Pomegranate extract and powder comes from the rinds of pomegranates Punica granatum. It is high in tannin and improves the light and washfastness of any dye with which it is mixed. It can be used as both a dye and a mordant. The age of the fruit affects the color of the dye: the less ripe the fruit, the greener the yellow. 

    • Dye Amount: 5-8% WOF Extract, 15-20% WOF Powder
    • Color:Soft yellows to green-yellows
    • Light fastness: n/a
    • Wash fastness: n/a
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Alum mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers
    • Dyeing:
      • Add extract or powder to a small container. Add hot water and mix thoroughly until all the dye material has dissolved or dispersed into the water. Add mixture to dye pot with fiber and enough water to cover the fiber being dyed. Simmer for approximately 1 hour. For best results, let the dye bath cool overnight.
    • Color Variations
      • Cement grey: Add ferrous sulfate
      • Moss green: Add ferrous sulfate
      • Brightened Yellows: Add turmeric. Also increases lightfastness
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  • Oak Gall - 2 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Oak Gall - 2 oz

    $7.45

    Gallnut or Oak Gall is used to mordant cellulose fibers and fabrics before the alum mordant is used. Alum does not combine as readily with cellulose fibers as it does with protein fibers.

    Tannin has a great affinity with cellulose fiber and once mordanted with tannin, alum combines well with the tannin-fiber complex.

    Gallnuts from the oak tree are the earliest and richest source for natural tannin. They are produced by insects who deposit their eggs in small punctures they make on young branches. As a protection, the tree excretes a tannin rich substance that hardens and forms into a gallnut. These are collected and ground for use as a tannin mordant.

    Gallnuts are used in the leather tanning industry, and for in some medicines.

    Use at 6-8% WOF.
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  • Osage Extract 1 oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Osage Extract 1 oz

    $4.45

    Consists of the wood from the osage-orange tree(Maclura pomifera). Osage contains a yellow dye similar to fustic and black oak and yields clear, true yellows to soft yellow greens. Osage grows throughout the south and central United States. 

    • Dye Amount: 2-5% WOF Extract, 20-30% WOF chips or saw dust
    • Color: True to soft yellows
    • Light fastness: Excellent
    • Wash fastness: Excellent
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Tannin mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF
    • Dyeing:
      • Chips or saw dust: Cover the chips or saw dust with boiling water and let soak overnight. Remove the chips/dust, add addition water to cover fiber and simmer at around 170 degrees but not more than 180 degrees for an hour. For Rich colors, leave the fibers to soak overnight.
      • Extract: Mix the extract in a small container of hot but not boiling water. Once thoroughly mixed, add to the dye bath and simmer for 45 minutes. For rich colors, allow the dye bath to cool overnight.
    • Color Variations
      • Brightened Yellows: add copper to the dye bath or dye in a copper pot
      • Olive Green: Add 2-4% ferrous sulfate
      • Emerald Green or Leaf green: Over dye or under Dye in indigo
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  • Madder - Rubia Tinctorium - Powder - 2 oz
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    Madder – Rubia tinctorium, Rubia cordifolia, and Morinda citrifolia is an ancient dye that dates back to 3000BC. It is most frequently used to produce turkey reds, mulberry, orange-red, terracotta, and in combination with other dyes and dyeing procedures can yield crimson, purple, rust, browns, and near black. The primary dye component is alizarin, which is found in the roots of several plants and trees. Madder is cultivated and grows wild throughout India, south east Asia, Turkey, Europe, south China, parts of Africa, Australia and Japan. Madder is a complex dyestuff containing over 20 individual chemical substances. Alizarin is the most important of these because it gives the famous warm Turkey red color. Also present in this wonderful plant is munjistin, purpurin, and a multitude of yellows and browns. Madder is dyed at 35-100% WOF for a medium depth of shade.

    • Dye Amount: 35-100% WOF
    • Color: Cranberry to Garnett
    • Light fastness: High
    • Wash fastness: High
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Tannin mordant at 8% WOF and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers.
    • Dyeing: Madder develops to its deepest and richest reds in hard water – water containing calcium and magnesium salts is ideal. If the water is soft add calcium carbonate (a single Tum’s tablet to 4 litres of water works well). Add dye material to dye pot and cover with water. Bring up to about 60ºC (140ºF) and hold for an hour. Add fibres and continue cooking for another 1-2 hours. For clear reds do not let the temperature go above 72ºC (160ºF). At higher temperatures the browns of the madder plant come out and dull the colour. The madder dyebath can be reused two or three times for lighter shades

      Because of the different dye components present in the madder plant, the dyer can coax many colors out and onto the cloth by manipulating the mordanting process, the pH, the temperature, and the dye process. There are hundreds of madder recipes used historically that are intriguing to try including one from Turkey which brings out the purpurin from madder and gives a purple.

      Madder, in combination with cochineal yields a true red, with iron yields garnet, bright orange with alum and cream of tartar, brick red with alum mordant and a higher heat, the addition of acetic acid or vinegar plus iron will push the color to a rich brownish-purple.

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  • Iron Sulfate - 8 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Iron Sulfate - 8 oz

    $4.05

    Iron can be used as a modifier or a mordant. It can be used on all fibers and makes colors darker in tone. It also increases lightfastness and washfastness of the dyed project. 

    This iron powder is light green and food grade. Too much iron can harshen the hand of protein (silk, wool) fibers, so use sparingly.

    iron Sulfate may also be used as the reducing agent in a traditional indigo fermentation vat, often called the “Copperas” vat. 

    It is also possible to create an iron acetate mordant by combining iron and acetic acid. 

    Keep out of reach of children.
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  • Tartaric Acid - 1 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Tartaric Acid - 1 oz

    $2.50

    Tartaric acid can be an optional addition to the alum mordant process in natural dyeing. It is used to soften and protect protein fibers and brighten shades. It is used like cream of tartar but will give different shades than cream of tartar.

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  • Cutch Extract 1oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Cutch Extract 1oz

    $2.50

    Cutch Extract is produced by soaking the wood of the Acacia Catechu tree in hot water until a syrupy liquid emerges. It is then dries and ground into a fine powder. It ca be found throughout India, Burma, Indonesia and Peru. This extract is easily soluble in water.

    • Dye Amount: 20-50% WOF for a medium depth of shade
    • Color: brown, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove
    • Light fastness: Excellent
    • Wash fastness: Excelent
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for cellulose fibers
      • Tannin mordant is not required. 
    • Dyeing
      • Dissolve the powdered cutch in boiling water and add it to dye bath.
      • Deeper colors can be achieved by first soaking the cutch extract in a weak mixture of caustic soda.
      • Add 1 tsp lye or sodium hydroxide to 1 gallon of water. Soak for 1 hour.
      • Add more water and neutralize with acetic acid or vinegar to pH7. Add this neutral solution to the dye bath.
      • Add fibers to the dye bath and simmer at low temperature for 2 hours.
      • Cutch does not easily exhaust and dyebaths can be used multiple times for lighter shades.
    • Variations
      • Alum mordant yields toffee browns.
      • The addition of iron at 2-4% WOF yields chocolate browns
      • Soda ash rinse will redden the cutch color.
      • Addition of 2% WOF hydrogen peroxide during the final 15 minutes of dyeing will darken cutch considerably.
      • Allowing the fiber to cool down and sit in the dye bath overnight will give the darkest shades.
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  • Pomegranate Extract - 1 oz
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    CupidFallsFarm

    Pomegranate Extract - 1 oz

    $4.15

    Pomegranate extract and powder comes from the rinds of pomegranates Punica granatum. It is high in tannin and improves the light and washfastness of any dye with which it is mixed. It can be used as both a dye and a mordant. The age of the fruit affects the color of the dye: the less ripe the fruit, the greener the yellow. 

    • Dye Amount: 5-8% WOF Extract, 15-20% WOF Powder
    • Color:Soft yellows to green-yellows
    • Light fastness: n/a
    • Wash fastness: n/a
    • Mordant
      • Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
      • Alum mordant at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers
    • Dyeing:
      • Add extract or powder to a small container. Add hot water and mix thoroughly until all the dye material has dissolved or dispersed into the water. Add mixture to dye pot with fiber and enough water to cover the fiber being dyed. Simmer for approximately 1 hour. For best results, let the dye bath cool overnight.
    • Color Variations
      • Cement grey: Add ferrous sulfate
      • Moss green: Add ferrous sulfate
      • Brightened Yellows: Add turmeric. Also increases lightfastness
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  • Soda Ash - 4 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Soda Ash - 4 oz

    $2.30

    Soda Ash - Sodium Carbonate - Washing Soda - Soda Glass - Soda Ash Fixer

    Fiber reactive dyes used on cellulose fibers needs to be "fixed" to the fiber. Soda ash is a mild alkali that allows this reaction to occur. Enough soda ash should be used to get a PH of around 10.5 or all the dye will not adhere to the fiber.

    Care should be used when using on silk as too much may damage the fabric.

    Soda ash is also suitable for use as a ceramic Glaze, Glass making, toothpaste, water softener, washing soda and tie dye.

    Larger quantities are available, please contact us for pricing.
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  • Potassium Alum - 16 oz - Wholesale
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Potassium Alum - 16 oz - Wholesale

    $6.15

    Potassium Aluminum Sulfate is probably the most commonly used mordant by Natural dyers of both protein and cellulose fibers. I is used to improve both the lightfastness and washfastness as well as creating bright clear colors. It is safe when handled properly and relatively inexpensive. 

    Aluminum sulfate results from the refining of Bauxite which is raw aluminum ore. Sulfuric acid is used during the process to remove most of the impurities such as iron and silica. Potassium Alum is created by further purification with potassium. This results in fewer impurities, especially iron and results in brighter colors. Potassium alum is more expensive but preferred by many natural dyers. 

    Use at 12-20% WOF

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  • Aluminum Sulfate - 8 oz
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Aluminum Sulfate - 8 oz

    $3.95

    Aluminum Sulfate is commonly used as a mordant by Natural dyers of both protein and cellulose fibers. It is used to improve both the lightfastness and washfastness as well as creating bright clear colors. Aluminum Sulfate is technically not an alum although it is commonly referred to as one.
    It is safe when handled  properly and relatively inexpensive. 
    Aluminum sulfate results from the refining of Bauxite which is raw aluminum ore. Sulfuric acid is used during the process to remove most of the impurities such as iron and silica.
    Potassium Alum is created by further purification with potassium. This results in fewer impurities, especially iron and results in brighter colors. Potassium alum is more expensive but preferred by many natural dyers. 
    • Use at 12-20% WOF
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  • Oak Gall - 16 oz - Wholesale
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    Cupid Falls Farm

    Oak Gall - 16 oz - Wholesale

    $41.30

    Gallnut or Oak Gall is used to mordant cellulose fibers and fabrics before the alum mordant is used. Alum does not combine as readily with cellulose fibers as it does with protein fibers.

    Tannin has a great affinity with cellulose fiber and once mordanted with tannin, alum combines well with the tannin-fiber complex.

    Gallnuts from the oak tree are the earliest and richest source for natural tannin. They are produced by insects who deposit their eggs in small punctures they make on young branches. As a protection, the tree excretes a tannin rich substance that hardens and forms into a gallnut. These are collected and ground for use as a tannin mordant.

    Gallnuts are used in the leather tanning industry, and for in some medicines.

    Use at 6-8% WOF.
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