Newest Products

Fine Needle Mix.

96 Pack Includes 24 each of 40g Triangle, 42g Triangle, 40g Spiral and 43g Crown needles

Felting needles come in many different varieties. They come in different lengths, shaft shapes, number of barbs, type of bard and shape of point. All of this can seem confusing but it doesn’t need to be. The first thing we must remember is that all felting needles are manufactured for high speed large industrial machines that makes a wide spectrum of products. Craftsmen and artist have adapted them for use as a hand-held tool. The technical names and terms have crossed over to the artist/craft community and sometimes need explanation. Below is a simplified description of each of the needles we sell. If you still have any questions, please contact us, we are happy to help.

What size and type needle do you need? Here is a brief description that should help.
https://cupidfallsfarm.com/blogs/news/what-size-felting-needle-do-i-need

How do felting needles work?
Each needle has a number of barbs that catch the fiber as it is pushed through the project. This causes the fibers to become entangled to make a solid felt. The greater the number of barbs, the faster the project will felt.

What is Gauge?
The term “Gauge” simply refers to the thickness of the barb. There are many tables on the web that will let you convert from gauge to millimeters or inched but for the craft felter, its really not important. Gauge is a simple whole number that’s easy to remember. The confusing part about gauge is the larger the gauge, the smaller the shaft size. I.e. a 32-gauge needle will have a larger shaft diameter larger than that of a 42-gauge needle. Also, keep in mind that the larger the shaft size, the larger to whole left in your project. For quick felting, 32 gauge 9 point needles will felt quicker than 40 gauge 3 barb needles. The 40 gauge 3 barb needles will, however, leave a smoother service.

How do I care for my needles?
Felting needles are very delicate and break easily if not used properly. They designed to go into industrial machines that hold thousands of needles at a time and operate in an up and down motion. Using your needles at a sever angle, twisting manor or in a manner that would cause them to bend can cause them to break. Also, take care that the pad you felt on is thick enough to allow the needles to not hit the hard surface under the pad. This is the quickest and most common way to break needles. Felting needles are for dry felting and will rust if exposed to water or moisture.

If you are purchasing needles for a multi needle tool or felting machine, please ask before you purchase to make sure they will fit.

***********************************************************************************
-Needles are very sharp, please use caution when using.
-Children should be supervised at all times while using or handling Needles.
-Always felt on an appropriate surface
-Needles are delicate, use proper care when using

• 100 Pack Includes 20 each of 36g Triangle, 38g Triangle, 36g Star, 38g Star and 38g Spiral needles

Coarse Needle Mix.

96 Pack Includes 24 each of 32g Triangle, 36g Triangle, 36g Star and 36g Spiral needles

Felting needles come in many different varieties. They come in different lengths, shaft shapes, number of barbs, type of bard and shape of point. All of this can seem confusing but it doesn’t need to be. The first thing we must remember is that all felting needles are manufactured for high speed large industrial machines that makes a wide spectrum of products. Craftsmen and artist have adapted them for use as a hand-held tool. The technical names and terms have crossed over to the artist/craft community and sometimes need explanation. Below is a simplified description of each of the needles we sell. If you still have any questions, please contact us, we are happy to help.

What size and type needle do you need? Here is a brief description that should help.
https://cupidfallsfarm.com/blogs/news/what-size-felting-needle-do-i-need

How do felting needles work?
Each needle has a number of barbs that catch the fiber as it is pushed through the project. This causes the fibers to become entangled to make a solid felt. The greater the number of barbs, the faster the project will felt.

What is Gauge?
The term “Gauge” simply refers to the thickness of the barb. There are many tables on the web that will let you convert from gauge to millimeters or inched but for the craft felter, its really not important. Gauge is a simple whole number that’s easy to remember. The confusing part about gauge is the larger the gauge, the smaller the shaft size. I.e. a 32-gauge needle will have a larger shaft diameter larger than that of a 42-gauge needle. Also, keep in mind that the larger the shaft size, the larger to whole left in your project. For quick felting, 32 gauge 9 point needles will felt quicker than 40 gauge 3 barb needles. The 40 gauge 3 barb needles will, however, leave a smoother service.

How do I care for my needles?
Felting needles are very delicate and break easily if not used properly. They designed to go into industrial machines that hold thousands of needles at a time and operate in an up and down motion. Using your needles at a sever angle, twisting manor or in a manner that would cause them to bend can cause them to break. Also, take care that the pad you felt on is thick enough to allow the needles to not hit the hard surface under the pad. This is the quickest and most common way to break needles. Felting needles are for dry felting and will rust if exposed to water or moisture.

If you are purchasing needles for a multi needle tool or felting machine, please ask before you purchase to make sure they will fit.

***********************************************************************************
-Needles are very sharp, please use caution when using.
-Children should be supervised at all times while using or handling Needles.
-Always felt on an appropriate surface
-Needles are delicate, use proper care when using

Madder – Rubia tinctorium, Rubia cordifolia, and Morinda citrifolia is an ancient dye that dates back to 3000BC. It is most frequently used to produce turkey reds, mulberry, orange-red, terracotta, and in combination with other dyes and dyeing procedures can yield crimson, purple, rust, browns, and near black. The primary dye component is alizarin, which is found in the roots of several plants and trees. Madder is cultivated and grows wild throughout India, south east Asia, Turkey, Europe, south China, parts of Africa, Australia and Japan. Madder is a complex dyestuff containing over 20 individual chemical substances. Alizarin is the most important of these because it gives the famous warm Turkey red color. Also present in this wonderful plant is munjistin, purpurin, and a multitude of yellows and browns. Madder is dyed at 35-100% WOF for a medium depth of shade.

• Dye Amount: 35-100% WOF
• Color: Cranberry to Garnett
• Light fastness: High
• Wash fastness: High

• Mordant
• Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
• Tannin mordant at 8% WOF and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers.

• Dyeing: Madder develops to its deepest and richest reds in hard water – water containing calcium and magnesium salts is ideal. If the water is soft add calcium carbonate (a single Tum’s tablet to 4 litres of water works well). Add dye material to dye pot and cover with water. Bring up to about 60ºC (140ºF) and hold for an hour. Add fibres and continue cooking for another 1-2 hours. For clear reds do not let the temperature go above 72ºC (160ºF). At higher temperatures the browns of the madder plant come out and dull the colour. The madder dyebath can be reused two or three times for lighter shades

  Because of the different dye components present in the madder plant, the dyer can coax many colors out and onto the cloth by manipulating the mordanting process, the pH, the temperature, and the dye process. There are hundreds of madder recipes used historically that are intriguing to try including one from Turkey which brings out the purpurin from madder and gives a purple.

  Madder, in combination with cochineal yields a true red, with iron yields garnet, bright orange with alum and cream of tartar, brick red with alum mordant and a higher heat, the addition of acetic acid or vinegar plus iron will push the color to a rich brownish-purple.

Madder – Rubia tinctorium, Rubia cordifolia, and Morinda citrifolia is an ancient dye that dates back to 3000BC. It is most frequently used to produce turkey reds, mulberry, orange-red, terracotta, and in combination with other dyes and dyeing procedures can yield crimson, purple, rust, browns, and near black. The primary dye component is alizarin, which is found in the roots of several plants and trees. Madder is cultivated and grows wild throughout India, south east Asia, Turkey, Europe, south China, parts of Africa, Australia and Japan. Madder is a complex dyestuff containing over 20 individual chemical substances. Alizarin is the most important of these because it gives the famous warm Turkey red color. Also present in this wonderful plant is munjistin, purpurin, and a multitude of yellows and browns. Madder is dyed at 35-100% WOF for a medium depth of shade.

• Dye Amount: 35-100% WOF
• Color: Cranberry to Garnett
• Light fastness: High
• Wash fastness: High

• Mordant
• Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
• Tannin mordant at 8% WOF and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers.

• Dyeing: Madder develops to its deepest and richest reds in hard water – water containing calcium and magnesium salts is ideal. If the water is soft add calcium carbonate (a single Tum’s tablet to 4 litres of water works well). Add dye material to dye pot and cover with water. Bring up to about 60ºC (140ºF) and hold for an hour. Add fibres and continue cooking for another 1-2 hours. For clear reds do not let the temperature go above 72ºC (160ºF). At higher temperatures the browns of the madder plant come out and dull the colour. The madder dyebath can be reused two or three times for lighter shades

  Because of the different dye components present in the madder plant, the dyer can coax many colors out and onto the cloth by manipulating the mordanting process, the pH, the temperature, and the dye process. There are hundreds of madder recipes used historically that are intriguing to try including one from Turkey which brings out the purpurin from madder and gives a purple.

  Madder, in combination with cochineal yields a true red, with iron yields garnet, bright orange with alum and cream of tartar, brick red with alum mordant and a higher heat, the addition of acetic acid or vinegar plus iron will push the color to a rich brownish-purple.

Madder – Rubia tinctorium, Rubia cordifolia, and Morinda citrifolia is an ancient dye that dates back to 3000BC. It is most frequently used to produce turkey reds, mulberry, orange-red, terracotta, and in combination with other dyes and dyeing procedures can yield crimson, purple, rust, browns, and near black. The primary dye component is alizarin, which is found in the roots of several plants and trees. Madder is cultivated and grows wild throughout India, south east Asia, Turkey, Europe, south China, parts of Africa, Australia and Japan. Madder is a complex dyestuff containing over 20 individual chemical substances. Alizarin is the most important of these because it gives the famous warm Turkey red color. Also present in this wonderful plant is munjistin, purpurin, and a multitude of yellows and browns. Madder is dyed at 35-100% WOF for a medium depth of shade.

• Dye Amount: 35-100% WOF
• Color: Cranberry to Garnett
• Light fastness: High
• Wash fastness: High

• Mordant
• Alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibers
• Tannin mordant at 8% WOF and then alum at 15% WOF, or alum acetate at 8% WOF for cellulose fibers.

• Dyeing: Madder develops to its deepest and richest reds in hard water – water containing calcium and magnesium salts is ideal. If the water is soft add calcium carbonate (a single Tum’s tablet to 4 litres of water works well). Add dye material to dye pot and cover with water. Bring up to about 60ºC (140ºF) and hold for an hour. Add fibres and continue cooking for another 1-2 hours. For clear reds do not let the temperature go above 72ºC (160ºF). At higher temperatures the browns of the madder plant come out and dull the colour. The madder dyebath can be reused two or three times for lighter shades

  Because of the different dye components present in the madder plant, the dyer can coax many colors out and onto the cloth by manipulating the mordanting process, the pH, the temperature, and the dye process. There are hundreds of madder recipes used historically that are intriguing to try including one from Turkey which brings out the purpurin from madder and gives a purple.

  Madder, in combination with cochineal yields a true red, with iron yields garnet, bright orange with alum and cream of tartar, brick red with alum mordant and a higher heat, the addition of acetic acid or vinegar plus iron will push the color to a rich brownish-purple.

Turmeric is one of the easiest Dyes to work with. A great dye for beginners, it works especially well on animal or plant-based fibers such as silk, wool and cotton, and easily fixes itself to the material with or without a mordant, ranging from bright yellow with no mordant to dark green with an iron modifier. Another plus: it’s a dye that does not require heat – cold water works well for turmeric, and for darker and more orange shades, heat can be applied.

Also known as Indian saffron, Turmeric has been used in Indian cuisine for thousands of years and is found in many foods as a food coloring.

Turmeric is one of the easiest Dyes to work with. A great dye for beginners, it works especially well on animal or plant-based fibers such as silk, wool and cotton, and easily fixes itself to the material with or without a mordant, ranging from bright yellow with no mordant to dark green with an iron modifier. Another plus: it’s a dye that does not require heat – cold water works well for turmeric, and for darker and more orange shades, heat can be applied.

Also known as Indian saffron, Turmeric has been used in Indian cuisine for thousands of years and is found in many foods as a food coloring.

Turmeric is one of the easiest Dyes to work with. A great dye for beginners, it works especially well on animal or plant-based fibers such as silk, wool and cotton, and easily fixes itself to the material with or without a mordant, ranging from bright yellow with no mordant to dark green with an iron modifier. Another plus: it’s a dye that does not require heat – cold water works well for turmeric, and for darker and more orange shades, heat can be applied.

Also known as Indian saffron, Turmeric has been used in Indian cuisine for thousands of years and is found in many foods as a food coloring.

Titanium oxalate is an alternative mordant to chomium salts for an environmentaly friendly titanium-tannin process.

Titanium oxalate provides a better fixation of tannins and brighter oranges.

Use at 10-15% WOF

Titanium oxalate is an alternative mordant to chomium salts for an environmentaly friendly titanium-tannin process.

Titanium oxalate provides a better fixation of tannins and brighter oranges.

Use at 10-15% WOF

Spirulina - Super food, soap dye and natural fabric dye.

Spirulina is a non-toxic blue-green algae. It is the richest source of protein, vitamins, minerals, beta carotene, antioxidants & other nutrients missing in your diet

This spirulina is a blue-green algae that is grown in open-channel, shallow, man-made raceway ponds. Paddle wheels move the water to accelerate growth while growers continually add clean, fresh water and nutrients to the ponds to keep the spirulina thriving. When ready, the spirulina is harvested with filters, washed in fresh water, and then dried by spray drying machines. This spirulina is non-irradiated and non-GMO.

Spirulina is a wonderful natural soap colorant that will give your product a light to dark bluish green hue. Spirulina soap making is a ton of fun and will produce absolutely gorgeous naturally colored bars of soap. 

Spirulina - Super food, soap dye and natural fabric dye.

Spirulina is a non-toxic blue-green algae. It is the richest source of protein, vitamins, minerals, beta carotene, antioxidants & other nutrients missing in your diet

This spirulina is a blue-green algae that is grown in open-channel, shallow, man-made raceway ponds. Paddle wheels move the water to accelerate growth while growers continually add clean, fresh water and nutrients to the ponds to keep the spirulina thriving. When ready, the spirulina is harvested with filters, washed in fresh water, and then dried by spray drying machines. This spirulina is non-irradiated and non-GMO.

Spirulina is a wonderful natural soap colorant that will give your product a light to dark bluish green hue. Spirulina soap making is a ton of fun and will produce absolutely gorgeous naturally colored bars of soap. 

Spirulina - Super food, soap dye and natural fabric dye.

Spirulina is a non-toxic blue-green algae. It is the richest source of protein, vitamins, minerals, beta carotene, antioxidants & other nutrients missing in your diet

This spirulina is a blue-green algae that is grown in open-channel, shallow, man-made raceway ponds. Paddle wheels move the water to accelerate growth while growers continually add clean, fresh water and nutrients to the ponds to keep the spirulina thriving. When ready, the spirulina is harvested with filters, washed in fresh water, and then dried by spray drying machines. This spirulina is non-irradiated and non-GMO.

Spirulina is a wonderful natural soap colorant that will give your product a light to dark bluish green hue. Spirulina soap making is a ton of fun and will produce absolutely gorgeous naturally colored bars of soap.